The million-dollar question: Should you buy Modernist Pizza, or 16 other pizza books for about the same total price?

5/17/2023

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review: Conclusion
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Modernist Pizza
Written by Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya
Published by The Cooking Lab; First edition, October 19, 2021
Hardcover: ‎ 1708 pages, 32.7 pounds, 13.78 x 10.24 x 15.94 inches
List Price: $425.00
Amazon discount price as of 04/17/24: $289.99

People have I asked me whether they should buy Modernist Pizza. That's a dangerous query: What's MY opinion on whether YOU should spend $425 on a three-volume pizza “cookbook” that weighs 32 pounds and comes in a stainless-steel case with a bright red finish.

The answer is simple: Yes. If you can even ask the question, you are a candidate. If you are someone who doesn’t automatically say, “$425 for a cookbook is insane!”, then you may well be the right person for this epic work on pizza: the history, current state of the art, techniques and recipes.

The people to whom I’ve unequivocally recommended this book are very smart people who have two things in common: They are adventurers and they love pizza.

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: After you've made all the pizzas, you gotta serve 'em, store 'em, reheat 'em--but how?

5/10/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 14, "Serving And Storage"
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

“You’ve mixed and proofed, stretched and sauced, cheesed and baked. It’s the moment you’ve been waiting for, the moment where you’ve just pulled the pizza from the oven. What more can we tell you at this point? Just dig in, right?”

And so it begins: the end. The last chapter of Modernist Pizza. But knowing Mhyrvold & Migoya, you’re going to get the Modernistas’ take all the way through to serving and storing your pizza, which means (yes): They did experiments.

How to vent steam from the bottom of the pizza is a conundrum. Steam makes the pizza soggy, so how do you prevent that?

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: In the vast and expansive homemade pizza playpen: What fantastic flavors will paint your pizza?

5/3/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 13, "Flavor Themes"
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

“But what do we mean by a flavor theme? It’s a combination of sauce, cheese and toppings that would work on virtually any style of pizza.” Thus begins the discussion of what to put on the top of your pizza.

My wife has been after me to write a book about pizza toppings. She feels like that’s something the marketplace is missing. I’m not sure whether I agree with that.

But the Modernistas could certainly write it. I hope they will. They’ve done the research and have the recipes. And it’s all here in Volume 3, Chapter 13, “Flavor Themes.” I admit, I’m excited by this. (Yes, my life has become very small.)

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: The volume of recipes opens by defying your expectations of what a recipe book can be (Part 4)

4/26/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 4
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Perhaps there is hope for us regular folks as pizzamakers after all. The section of Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," beginning “Thick Crust Pizza” is another excellent, concise overview of pan pizza technical details and aesthetics. And something in there is eerily familiar.

In the section of “Thick-Crust Key Characteristics," there’s a photo of an “open crumb structure” crust. That photo makes me feel better about my own Detroit-style pizzas. They look shockingly similar. If I’m approaching anything Mhyrvold & Migoya approve as desirable, it makes me feel like I’m yet again doing something else correctly.

The photos in Modernist Pizza can be very helpful in providing an aesthetically pleasing yet technically useful illustration of what this stuff should look like in process. This includes the beauty shots (of which there are many, many alluring examples). But it's also about the process shots within the recipes. And once again, who doesn’t love an exploded view photo of a pizza? This time, it’s a Detroit-style Red Top Pizza, as they call it (or a “red stripe” pizza as I originally learned it).

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: The volume of recipes opens by defying your expectations of what a recipe book can be (Part 3)

4/19/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 3
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Move aside, Neapolitan pizza—folks are ready to start hurling the Chicago deep-dish! But the Modernistas remain unemotional and clear-eyed, of course. And they could not possibly be smarter about it. I think. (There will be mac and cheese involved…)

In the recipes section for deep-dish, Mhyrvold & Migoya get right to it: “Whether deep-dish is really a pizza or not is the subject of many heated debates (based largely on where you call home). Some feel strongly that it’s pizza while others feel just as strongly that deep-dish pizza is closer to a casserole.”

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: The volume of recipes opens by defying your expectations of what a recipe book can be (Part 2)

4/12/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 2
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

And so the section on Neapolitan pizza begins: “Neapolitan pizza has influenced every other style of pizza in the world, yet it shares very little with those styles in terms of appearance, texture and flavor.”

I’m not going to say, “Tell us something we don’t know.” Not everyone knows that—especially if they just opened the book, bypassing two volumes of sensible intel for the “action” of the recipes. (Note: Treating this 3-volume epic as a cookbook is a tragic mistake and a waste of money. There is so much more at work here.)

Mhyrvold & Migoya outline key characteristics that do seem have already been sufficiently beaten throughout the book. But this IS the baking chapter, after all. And in the process of enduring such redundancy, we get all kinds of new stuff.

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: The volume of recipes opens by defying your expectations of what a recipe book can be

3/29/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 1
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

It looks like intense flavor: a pizza with big, caramelized bubbles and bits of pink salmon, salmon roe and green chives. Then, there’s an extreme closeup of olive oil drizzling from a copper cruet onto a red, white and bright green Margherita pizza ready for the oven, with chunks of fresh, fat, white bufala and a deep red sauce. Next, a steel factory conveyor covered with pans of steel parts, nuts and bolts, all surrounding a golden caramelized Detroit-style pan pizza.

Even before reaching the first page of the opening chapter in Volume 3, the Modernist Pizza photography is stunning--and in the Detroit case, maybe just a little wrong. Wrenches and bolts and pizza, oh my. If you're unaware of the legacy, Detroit pizza was invented in 1946. Since the available baking pans at the time were insufficient, Detroit pizza was baked in pans from an automotive supplier. The pans were originally intended for holding small parts on auto assembly lines.

Once again, Modernist Pizza defies expectations. You’d think that Volume 3 of a three-volume set, especially with a title like Recipes, would be straightforward and without much to discuss. Oh, no. This photography is just a precursor of the ongoing Modernista intensity to come.

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: In baking pizza, are you denying absolute truths that prevent you from attaining Pizza Nirvana? (Part 2)

3/22/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 11, "Baking Pizza," Part 2
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

And now, “Transforming Dough Into Pizza.” As mentioned previously, I’m a big fan of the “T” word. I believe that the transformation of simple ingredients into the joy that is pizza is part of the reason for the ongoing fascination with pizza.

Every time you make pizza, it’s like a little bit of magic happens. And the Modernista description here of what goes on inside a pizza during the bake is a kind of marvel of thermodynamics meeting biochemistry all for our delight and dining pleasure.

That said, I’m faced with a head-scratcher in this section. The description of why a Neapolitan pizza doesn’t get crispy belies my own experience with a wood oven. They tell me that a Neapolitan pizza doesn’t get crispy because the 60- to 90-second bake time is so short.

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: In baking pizza, are you denying absolute truths that prevent you from attaining Pizza Nirvana? (Part 1)

3/15/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 11, "Baking Pizza," Part 1
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

While I’m not one to claim there are absolute truths in pizza, following is an absolute truth. The good news is, I didn’t write it. Nobody cares what I think. Ready?

“You’ll find that understanding the basic science of how baking works makes the practice of baking your pizza easier and more interesting. After all, turning dough into a successful pizza is the result of a series of steps: properly proofing the dough, stretching it to the right thickness and safely transferring it to a hot oven (hopefully one that’s well suited to your specific pizza style) to bake.”

Wow. Somebody might want to explain this to the guys (and it’s always guys) who keep posting their so-called pizzas on social media. They’ll say something like, “I got this new outdoor oven, and it keeps burning the crust! I’ve thrown away like 10 of these things! What am I doing wrong?”

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Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: Are you flinging toppings at your pizza in the most humane way possible?

3/8/2023

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**The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 10, "Toppings"**
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Order of assembly. Distribution. Weight. Preparation. Payload. Are we making pizza or going to the moon? Well, if the pizza is good enough, maybe both. But the word on the first page of “Toppings” lets you know that there’s real science going on. The word is: "biteability."

“Even though it’s a made-up word, we’re pretty sure you know what we mean: The ability to bite cleanly into a slice without dragging off all the toppings. Important, right?” Don’t try to tell me Mhyrvold & Migoya don’t cover the important stuff.

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Modernist Pizza pulls back the curtain on the mysteries of cheese and what it means to your flat little world of pizza-making (Part 2)

3/1/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 9, "Cheese," Part II
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Welcome to “The Importance Of Portioning.” Sounds thrilling, right? Or maybe not. But what is laudable is that Mhyrvold & Migoya seem to always be aware of how their audience is made up of a range of pizzamakers, from pros to hobbyists.

“If you’re making pizza at home, do you need to have precise portions of toppings? Not really, as long as you don’t overdo it. Follow our common sense steps in the chapter starting on page 3:3 and you’ll be fine. If you own a pizzeria, though, it’s a different story.”

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Modernist Pizza pulls back the curtain on the mysteries of cheese and what it means to your flat little world of pizza-making (Part 1)

2/22/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 9, "Cheese," Part I
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Does the phrase “ooey-gooey” make you want to turn the page? Maybe it’s just me. But the Modernistas went there. It’s at the very beginning of Volume 2, Chapter 9, the chapter on Cheese.

They first acknowledge that the only cheese-less pizza most people expect is Pizza Marinara. They then say that people generally expect cheese. And finally, they reference the many advertising images of “ooey-gooey cheese.” Ack.

I guess this confirms that while Mhyrvold & Migoya are science-based thinkers, they also live in the real world. Personally, I’ve tried to avoid the phrase “ooey-gooey” for my entire career as a writer. This might be the first time I’ve ever even committed it to print. That said, I have not tried to avoid cheese in any way. And this is a head-first dive into cheesy delights.

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The Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: From jamming it in a can to saucing it up, hello tomato (and beyond)! Part 3

2/14/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part III
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Getting beyond the tomato! Yes, I know. It’s hard. For me, a non-red pizza is a challenging thing, with the occasional exception of a white clam pizza.

But there are lots of people out there who like a white pizza or a green pizza. My ever-suffering pizza-widow wife among them. So maybe this part of Modernist Pizza can bring solace and inspiration.

Let the experiments begin! The Modernistas have worked up an alternative way of making béchamel. White sauces for pizza typically use flour as a thickener, “which can dilute the flavor and leave an unpleasant goopy texture in the baked pizza.”

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The Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: From jamming it in a can to saucing it up, hello tomato (and beyond)! Part 2

2/8/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part II
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Now, about those canned tomatoes. Unsurprisingly, some strains of tomato have been developed to withstand the rigors of machine picking for canning. Says Modernist Pizza, “The thicker the flesh, the fewer seeds a tomato will have, and the seeds, along the jellylike membrane that envelops the seeds (called the parenchyma), are where the flavor resides.” Yay, parenchyma!

There’s also a comprehensive discussion of how tomatoes are canned. What’s good is tomatoes bred for processing are harvested at the full-ripe stage, which is their most flavorful. Less good is that some processors adjust flavor with additives, like sugar, salt or citric acid. The Modernistas prefer tomatoes without the additives.

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The Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: From jamming it in a can to saucing it up, hello tomato (and beyond)! Part 1

2/1/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part I
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

“To many, if it doesn’t have some kind of sauce on top, it’s probably not pizza.” Thus begins the chapter of Modernist Pizza that might seem innocuous. Only after you dive in is it clear just how much the global tomato crop means to life, the universe and pizza.

The first page of Volume 2, Chapter 8, “Sauce,” sets us up for the importance of tomatoes—while simultaneously dashing any requirement for tomatoes.

Sauces can be green or white, made of cream or cheese, egg, stock, or even soup. Yes, soup. And I admit, while I’ve never used soup for pizza, I have made pizzas with leftover gumbo and leftover etouffée. Soup-adjacent sauces, if you will. Seems my efforts fit right into the Modernist paradigm. (Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn and all that…)

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The Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: Cross-Crusting, Dough Problems, And Enough Recipes To Make Your Head Fly Off (The Pizza Dough Recipes Chapter)

1/25/2023

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 7, "Pizza Dough Recipes"
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Is Cross-Crusting a deviant pizza behavior? What would happen if you used the “wrong” dough for the type of pizza you wanted? Would you be ostracized? Hell no! This is science!

Welcome to the review of Chapter 7, “Pizza Dough Recipes,” in Volume 2 of Modernist Pizza. This is the one you've been waiting for. Or not. Depends on who you are and how much you care. Some folks will lose their minds. It's DOUGH!

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In the epic pursuit of Modernist Pizza, all roads lead to the best pizza dough recipes for your homemade pie, Part 2...

1/17/2023

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**The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 6, "Making Pizza Dough" (Part II)**
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Ever wondered why some pizza doughs call for a bulk fermentation and others don’t? Strap in and hang on! It’s another wild ride inside Modernist Pizza.

The Modernistas recommend bulk fermentation for their bread-like pizza doughs. They also have an outlier Neapolitan recipe that includes bulk fermentation, which is not a traditional approach.

I use and recommend a bulk fermentation for my own pizza dough. It was inspired by Peter Reinhart’s Neapolitan dough recipe in American Pie. So, maybe outliers abound—but it seems you’re really only going to get full scoop on the science from Modernist Cuisine. That’s probably because, well, lots of people just don’t want lots of science. But you and I do, right?

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The Midweek Modernist Pizza Report: Traveling the world to eat the best pizza, getting paid for it AND collecting frequent flier miles? How do you get THAT gig? (Part III)

12/7/2022

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part III)
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

Legendary pizza can lead to legendary disappointment. To wit: a crust that is “Dry and dense, almost like hardtack,” “charred to the point of being burnt,” “very low on salt,” “lackluster sauce," "toppings tossed on haphazardly, and a paltry grating of Pecorino.”

Welcome back to Pizza Travels with the Modernist Pizza crew. When we saw you last time, we were talking about the challenges of nostalgia. Such challenges infect certain objects of New York-style pizza love. But perhaps nowhere did the Modernistas experience the dangerous challenges of nostalgia as they did in New Haven.

The list of shortcomings in the first paragraph above were leveled at some of the most beloved pizza in the United States: That of the legendary New Haven. Their research took them to all the big, important icons of New Haven pizza. And their report? Talk about a slap in the face with a wet slice.

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THE MIDWEEK MODERNIST PIZZA REPORT: Traveling the world to eat the best pizza, getting paid for it AND collecting frequent flier miles? How do you get THAT gig? (Part II)

11/30/2022

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part II)
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

When we left you last time, we’d been diving into pizza in São Paolo. As one of the world’s major pizza cities, it has a unique and vibrant pizza culture with a per-capita incidence of pizza restaurants that makes it outweigh the 900-pound pizza gorilla of New York City. As much of a shocker as that was, get ready for this little slice of pizza madness…

The city of Buenos Aires is equally as mythologized as New York or New Haven. And in contrast to Sāo Paolo’s sit-down, fine-dining pizza culture, Buenos Aires is a slice culture like New York’s. The pizza joint proprietors are reportedly a lot more like New Yorkers in their demeanor—and even in their suspicion of anyone wanting to do what the Modernist Cuisiners are doing.

Pizza in Buenos Aires is eaten mostly while standing at a counter. The slices are thick and heavy and “smothered with cheese.” The Modernist crew actually decided that it is possible to have too much cheese. They referred to the slices there as “weighty” and said they’d like the volume “dialed back.” I admit, it does make me wonder whether there’s a cholesterol problem in Buenos Aires.

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THE MIDWEEK MODERNIST PIZZA REPORT: Traveling the world to eat the best pizza, getting paid for it AND collecting frequent flier miles? How do you get THAT gig? (Part I)

11/23/2022

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The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part I)
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

In the pantheon of Modernist Cuisine cookbooks, it seems that Modernist Pizza is the first one with a travelogue. And an engaging, tasty, myth-busting travelogue it is.

In an effort to find the best pizzas on earth, the Modernistas hit what they refer to as the first-generation pizza cities: New York, New Haven, Naples, Buenos Aires and São Paolo. They also ventured to the style-related cities like Chicago, California and Rome. The visited a lot of pizzerias—yet the journey covered only about one one-thousandth of a percent of the world’s total pizza joints.

And once again, there is the potential for fistfights. But it’s hard to argue with such a team of smart people with mad skills making the trek so we don’t have to. Even though we kinda wish we could.

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​Saturday Afternoon Pizza Posts

The Homemade Pizza Blog At Free The Pizza

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review: Conclusion (To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 14, "Serving And Storage" (To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 13, "Flavor Themes" (To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 4​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 3(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 2​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 1​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 11, "Baking Pizza," Part 2​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 11, "Baking Pizza," Part 1​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 10, "Toppings"(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)​

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 9, "Cheese," Part II​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 9, "Cheese," Part I​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part III​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part II​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part I​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

​The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 6, "Making Pizza Dough" (Part II)(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

​The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part III) ​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

​The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part II) ​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part I) ​(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

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Saturday Afternoon Pizza Posts

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review: Conclusion
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 14, "Serving And Storage"
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 13, "Flavor Themes"
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 4
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 3
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 2
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 3, Chapter 12, "Iconic Recipes," Part 1
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 11, "Baking Pizza," Part 2
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 11, "Baking Pizza," Part 1
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

**The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 10, "Toppings"**
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 9, "Cheese," Part II
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 9, "Cheese," Part I
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part III
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part II
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 8, "Sauce," Part I
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

**The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 2, Chapter 6, "Making Pizza Dough" (Part II)**
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part III)
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part II)
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)

The Ongoing Modernist Pizza Review, Volume 1, Chapter 3, "Pizza Travels" (Part I)
(To see the entire 50,000-word review, click here.)